As the cold, Baltic wind hits me as I step out of Gdańsk airport, I briefly wonder if I should’ve ventured to somewhere with warmer climes for my spontaneous winter break. Three days later, I’ve been completely charmed by this vibrant port city of old and new.
The pierogis aren't bad, either.
Gdańsk, or “Dansk”, to give it its proper local pronunciation, is a historic city on Poland’s northern Baltic coast, and the key urban centre of the Polish Tricity (also containing Sopot and Gdynia).
The city has a complex history to say the least. Control of Gdańsk has changed hands to various powers many times over the centuries. A key trading port during the Middle Ages, Gdańsk was initially part of Poland before becoming a free city under the Hanseatic League. Later, it was ruled by Prussia and Germany until 1919, when it became a free city yet again. Before being annexed during the second World War by Nazi Germany. And finally, being incorporated back into Poland after the war.
It’s been the focal point for a lot of significant European political history, too, being the site where World War II kicked off with the German invasion of Poland, and later the centre of the Solidarity movement which heavily contributed to the fall of the Soviet communist regime in Eastern Europe.
These days, Gdańsk is famed for its gorgeous Old Town full of Baroque-era architecture and Gothic churches. As well as its fantastic Christmas markets, more full of locals than tourists.
That’s one of the reasons I’m here - as well as the fact that Gdańsk is a hub for cheap, Ryanair flights. I got a tip from a friend that recently started a job with the budget airline that Wednesday’s are the cheapest days to book online with them. Lo and behold, it checked out and I got a last-minute weekend return flight for a steal. 9 days later, I’m flying from Dublin to Gdańsk.
And I’d later meet plenty of travellers from all over the UK and Europe that nabbed similar cheap direct flights. It’s always worth checking Skyscanner too for last minute deals and flight price comparisons.
Day 1: History Walk & My First Pierogi
After passing through an urban jungle of Soviet-era ‘commie block’ apartment buildings, my first port of call when I step off the No. 210 Bus at Gdańsk Glowny is the Museum of the Second World War. The key museums in Gdańsk are impressive beasts, easily taking a half day each to do proper justice to. And the two I visited now rank among my favourites ever in Europe. But sadly, my schedule for the day is a little hectic, so I end up exploring this sobering museum at a somewhat hurried pace.
The main exhibition alone boasts over 2000 exhibits and 240 multimedia stands telling the story of the war’s genesis and consequences. It weaves together an all-encompassing experience of the true horror of the deadliest conflict in human history, rather than being just a collection of military memorabilia. It’s a must-see for anyone looking to grasp the impact of war on Europe.
Mariacka Street (St. Mary’s Street)After all that, I need a coffee... It’s only a short walk to the Old Town’s cobblestone Mariacka, or Mary’s Street, which boasts plenty of boujee cafes, bars and restaurants. It’s a gorgeous street, and the typical tenement houses each have a uniquely decorated stoop with stone steps - something I can’t compare to anywhere else in Europe. If you peer above you, you’ll even spot a few gargoyles.
There’s also a bustling amber trade here (which Gdańsk is famous for), if you’re looking to pick up a bargain gift. I get some brief respite from the cold air in Drukarnia Cafe. The coffee is excellent, but the homemade lemonade is even better, and I make a few more visits here over the weekend.
I’m also starving after a hectic morning of travel, so I head into the nearby famous Pierogarnia Stary Młyn for my first pierogi hit of the weekend. As I’d come to discover, Polish cuisine is hearty, meaty and spiced. The perfect comfort food for the cold weather outside. Probably the most famous Polish delicacy is pierogi, delicious filled dumplings stuffed with meat, cheese and veg and served with sauce - and Gdańsk is no slouch when it comes to great pierogi spots.
Pierogi is also a lot heartier and heavier than Asian dumplings like gyoza, so I’m feeling a little sluggish as I make my exit. With about an hour until I have to be in the centre of town for a Walkative tour I’ve booked, I decide to check into my hostel to dump my bag then make my way back.
The citywide bus system in Gdańsk is pretty good, and Google Maps works perfectly for seeing when the next bus arrives. It’s also very cheap and these days you can simply tap your debit or credit card on the bus, rather than struggling with the somewhat temperamental red ticket machines.
I check in, but as expected I’m now pushed for time to get back into town. Luckily, the way back to the Golden Gate area I have to meet my walking tour group is pretty much a straight road and I decide to download the Mevo bikeshare app and hop on a bike to cut my return journey time down to a mere 15 minutes. Gdańsk has decent cycling infrastructure and is fairly flat, so cycling is definitely a viable option here. Maybe best in summer, though…
Monument to the Defenders of the Polish Post OfficeThe walking tour of the Old Town is a fantastic mix of history and culture, and like most, is a great way to connect with fellow travellers. It gives a good overview of this city's dark and bloody history, but with plenty of lighter moments that reflect the classic ‘Danziger’ sense of humour spliced throughout.
We visit famous sites like the Torture House, Great Armoury and the imposing Gothic-style St Marys Basilica and finish up at the Post Office; the siege of which was one of the first acts of World War II. The post office was bravely defended by a handful of postal workers against overwhelming odds, and the building is now a symbol of Polish resistance against Nazi aggression.
I meet another solo traveller (who also nabbed a cheap Ryanair flight from London) on the tour and we check out the Christmas markets in the old town for the evening, keeping warm with mulled wine and sampling some regional delicacies. I get the Hungarian Lángos (deep fried flatbread with cheese and sour cream), which hits the spot, despite a long queue.
Hungarian Lángos with the Golden Gate (Zlota Brama) in the backgroundDay 2: Route To Nowhere & Milk Bars
Today I have another ambitious day of sightseeing planned but a slight technological mishap waylays my plans somewhat... It’s fair to say I’ve been over reliant on Google Maps on this trip so far and it ends up being my downfall. My plan this morning is to visit the Westerplatte peninsula in the port of Gdańsk where World War II began on September 1st 1939 when the Germans attacked. But my minimal level of research into this activity means I follow Google Maps and make the not-insignificant journey deep into Nowy port to find the water taxi across the bay listed on Maps (at Latarnia Morska) simply doesn’t exist; there’s literally nothing there.
Take heed, fellow travellersMaybe a ferry did exist pre-covid… But for now, I have to settle for a view of the Westerplatte peninsula and WWII memorial from the top floor of Nowy Port Lighthouse on the other side. Not a bad consolation prize as it’s practically free to enter and it’s the site where the first gunshots of the war were actually fired. I meet a fellow traveller who made the same Google Maps mistake, and we check out a few sites for the day.
View of Westerplatte from Nowy Port LighthouseWe make our way back through the port area, passing by the famous Imperial Shipyard, which is incredibly relevant to our next location, the European Solidarity Centre. The imposing museum and library is devoted to the history of Solidarity (Solidarność), the Polish trade union and civil resistance movement, which sparked global solidarity to the cause and other opposition movements throughout the 80s - eventually leading to the collapse of Communist Eastern Europe.
The architecture of the building alone is impressive, and the comprehensive exhibition (you’ll need at least 2.5 - 3 hours here) provides a history of the movements foundation at Gdańsk shipyard and important figures like Lech Wałęsa, through each country’s support for the cause, right up to modern opposition and resistance movements seen in Ukraine in response to the ongoing Russian invasion. An inspiring and enriching museum well worth visiting.
After that it’s time for a late lunch, so we check out one of the famous Polish ‘milk bars’ I had gotten a tip about, Bar Mleczny Stągiewna in the city centre. A ‘bar mleczny’ - literally translated to milk bar - were Communist era cafeterias designed to feed the masses at a low cost, so named because of the cheese cutlets served when meat was at a shortage. The food here couldn’t be more hearty and authentic, as well as the service.
Lingering at the counter while still deciding what to order is definitely discouraged! Milk bars remain incredibly cheap, and you can expect to pay about €6-7 for a meal and beer. I opt for the Bigos, a Polish stew of various kinds of meat, sauerkraut and potatoes. Delicious and sure to warm you up from the cold weather outside.
After that, we head to one of the city’s Irish bars to watch some sport and sample the delicious local beer, before I need to get back for a hostel group dinner I booked using the Hostel World app - always a handy tool for connecting and chatting with fellow backpackers.
Later on, to continue the communist theme of the day, we all reconvene at the trendy Józef K bar in the middle of the old town for more beers. This hidden gem used to be a favourite haunt for PRL (Polish Communist Party) members having secret meetings, and retains the eclectic decor of the Soviet era.
Day 3: Majestic Malbork & Mandu
The cold, fresh Baltic air helps a hangover somewhat, and luckily my schedule is a little more relaxed today. All I have planned is a day trip to nearby Malbork Castle, the largest red brick gothic castle in the world - by some measures, the largest castle in the world, period. Direct trains seem to leave on the hour from central Gdańsk, but there’s many trains that stop there - the one I jumped on was bound for Vienna HbF.
Malbork CastleAfter about 40 minutes, you’ll step out of Malbork town station and be hit with an almighty stench from the sugar factory nearby. Not the best first impression... What is more impressive, however, is the magnificent Malbork Castle just ten minutes walk away. Built by Teutonic Knights in the 13th century, the grandiose red-brick castle covers 52 acres, over time enlarged to encompass the entire fortress town. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
When you buy your ticket, you’re given an audio guide, which is triggered responsively depending on which of the plethora of rooms in this massive fortress you’re in, so you’re free to explore the castle's treasury, several chapels and fair share of secret rooms and passages at a leisurely pace.
It will take you a few hours to explore fully, and keep in mind that during winter, last entry is at 14:30 PM - so plan your visit accordingly and give yourself ample time to arrive from Gdańsk.
When I arrive back in Gdańsk, the last thing I need to hit on my list is the famous pierogi restaurant, Pierogarnia MANDU, which comes recommended. I go for the pierogi stuffed with wild boar, served with a creamy mushroom sauce. But my starter steals the show here: it’s Żurek, a classic Polish sour rye soup, which tastes a lot better than it sounds.
Pierogi from ManduOverall, a delicious, flavorful meal but the pierogies are not that much better than what I’ve had so far this weekend. And I don’t think I can justify the 80 minute wait in the queue in the cold to get a table, plus another 30 minutes to actually get my food, when I have such limited time in this beautiful city…
I guess not everything’s worth waiting for, but my advice is not to wait on booking a cheap flight to Gdańsk for a winter break if it’s been on your bucket list.
- Cathal Prendergast is a freelance travel writer from Ireland.
