Iceland has been on my bucket list for a long time.
Just a 2.5-hour flight from home (Ireland), it offers a culture shock of alien landscapes without even crossing time zones. It’s no wonder the movie Interstellar was partially filmed here.
With a few days of annual leave to use before the end of the year, I booked a last-minute flight for mid-November (2024). It probably wasn’t the best timing, as the days are quite short compared to summer, when there’s up to 24 hours of daylight. In November, you only get about seven hours of daylight. On the plus side, you need lots of darkness if you want to glimpse the Northern Lights. You just have to pray for luck, and clear skies.
The rough plan was to start in Reykjavik (Southwest Iceland) and drive around the country (counter clockwise) in four days, fitting as many sights and activities as humanly possible.
We had the first 2.5 days planned and booked before our arrival, but we intentionally left the rest of the schedule open to decide our next moves as we went along.
Day 1: Volcano Climb & Reykjavík
Journey: Keflavík - Fagradalsfjall - Reykjavík (approx. 150 km)
Weather: Strong winds, scattered showers, fog.
I landed in Keflavík Airport a full 16 hours before my friends and immediately collected my car rental—Jeep Renegade. The onboard navigation system refused to cooperate, so Google Maps and Android Auto saved the day. With my home provider’s roaming plan, I was able to access mobile data without incurring hefty roaming fees—a minor detail I’d later learn wasn’t foolproof (more on that later).
My first mission? Climb a volcano. I had heard about Fagradalsfjall, located approximately 30 km from Keflavík Airport, and decided to take a detour to visit it on my way to Reykjavík, about 50 km from the airport.
Driving past surreal lava fields and alien landscapes on my way to Fagradalsfjall, I felt as though I had landed on another planet. As the rain pelted down, steam rose from the black lava formations lining the road. The drive was beautiful but eerily quiet. When I arrived in Grindavík, the town appeared deserted. Later, I learned it had been evacuated in 2023 due to recent volcanic activity.
Due to the poor weather conditions, I passed very few cars on the way—and none heading in my direction. By the time I reached Fagradalsfjall, it was after 3 p.m. It was still windy and foggy, but the rain had mostly stopped. With just over an hour of daylight left, I decided to head out and explore.
Parking costs about 1,000 ISK, payable by scanning a QR code or using the Parka app. Since this payment method is common in Reykjavík and across most attractions throughout Iceland nowadays, I recommend downloading the app as soon as you arrive.
Out on the trails, it was getting darker. I was so glad I remembered to pack my waterproof—not water-resistant—jacket and sturdy hiking boots. I hiked to the top of the nearest pseudocrater, Stórhóll. While it wasn’t a true volcano, I accepted it was as good as I could do considering the weather and time of day.
Unfortunately, the fog obscured any views from the top, though I did come across a huge lava field. Satisfied, I decided to head back to the car before darkness fully set in.
Heat: ON
Google Maps: ON
Icelandic playlist (featuring Björk): ON
I arrived in my hotel after 6pm and quickly threw my bags into my room to head out and explore the city. I got some food, walked up to Hallgrímskirkja and then visited Rainbow Street. Then I found Einstok Bar and sampled the local beers (I strongly recommend the Toasted Porter and Arctic Lager).
A minor mishap nearly derailed the day—misplacing my car keys led to frantic calls to the police, and the rental company who quoted me a staggering €880 for a replacement. Thankfully, I found the keys after a third luggage search. Crisis averted but I didn’t get to sleep until around 2 a.m.
Tip 1: If you're renting a car in Iceland, consider choosing an SUV with the best insurance package—it was one of our best decisions for peace of mind. The country's harsh climate and rural roads, often covered in gravel and riddled with potholes, can be challenging to navigate. (And don’t lose the keys to your rental—it’s probably not covered under the insurance.)
Day 2: Blue Lagoon, Lava Tubes & Waterfalls
Journey: Reykjavik - Keflavik - Blue Lagoon - Raufarhólshellir - Seljalandsfoss - Skógafoss - Vik (approx. 300 km)
Weather: Clear skies but scattered showers in the evening
Running on just 2.5 hours of sleep after the previous night’s mishap, I returned to the airport at 5.30 a.m. to collect my two friends flying in from Montreal.
First stop: the Blue Lagoon. Arriving at dawn, we were fortunate to find it relatively uncrowded. Floating in the warm, mineral-rich geo-thermal waters with a natural face mask while waiting for the sun to rise was pure bliss—even if our tight schedule allowed only 90 minutes.
Next on our itinerary were the Raufarhólshellir lava tunnels. This fascinating, albeit brief, 30-minute tour gave us a glimpse into Iceland's underground wonders. It fit perfectly into our packed schedule, though it felt less grand compared to the Blue Lagoon and the waterfalls we explored later.
Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss are two must-visit waterfalls and are easily accessible from their car parks—no hiking required.
At Seljalandsfoss, you can walk behind the cascading water, but be prepared to get soaked by the mist, especially on a windy day. And yes, the water is really cold.
Skógafoss, with its dramatic 60-metre drop, features a staircase leading to a viewing platform with stunning panoramic views.
We ended the day at the Farmhouse Lodge near Vík. Dinner at Smiðjan Brugghús, a brewery in Vík, was the perfect capstone to a long day.
Tip 2: Iceland is home to many stunning waterfalls. If you plan to visit any, there may be some hiking. Must-have items: sturdy hiking boots and waterproof gear.
Day 3: Black Sand Beach & Ice Caves
Journey: Vik - Jökulsárlón - Múlagljúfur Canyon - Höfn - Egilsstaðir (approx. 500 km)
Weather: Overcast morning, but clear skies later in the day.
We started the day at the Black Sand Beach, still shrouded in dusk, the powerful wind, dramatic basalt columns, crashing waves, and dark clouds added an almost-cinematic quality.
Afterward, a three-hour drive filled with playlists and podcasts (and a quick coffee stop at Skool of Beans) brought us to our ice cave tour (booked on Viator). Running late, a quick phone call and profuse apologies secured us a later time slot.
Unfortunately, this was the moment my phone mysteriously stopped working while I was streaming Spotify and navigating on Google Maps. My two friends were using roaming plans from their Canadian providers (each paying up to €16 per day) so they were able to make the call. As soon as we could find WiFi, I downloaded an eSIM and was back online for the rest of the trip.
We arrived at a car park behind Diamond beach; the viewpoint over Jökulsárlón where miniature icebergs floated out to sea. We met our tour guide there, hopped into his 4x4 truck, and in just 30 minutes, we were standing inside a vast ice cave.
The guide explained that this particular cave had only recently been discovered, making our visit even more special. I don’t think I’ve ever taken so many photos in one place.
As the day began to fade, we rushed to Mulagljúfur Canyon to chase more waterfalls before darkness set in. After hours driving, we ended the day with a hearty seafood dinner at Pakkhús in Höfn and stayed overnight at a Gistihúsið Lake Hótel in Egilsstaðir.
Conscious we were in one of the best countries to see the Northern Lights, we added our names to a wake-up call list in case they appeared. They didn’t, so we enjoyed an uninterrupted night of sleep instead.
Tip 3: If you’re planning a lot of stops on your road trip, make sure you can manage your bookings on the go and stay flexible. Don’t rely solely on Wi-Fi for the internet. If roaming charges are high or your mobile connection is unreliable, downloading an eSIM is a great option for connecting to local networks in the country.
Day 4: Waterfalls & Canyons
Journey: Egilsstaðir - Hengifoss - Beitarhúsið, Möðrudalsleið - Stuðlagil Canyon - Akureyri - Hvammstangi (Approx. 650 km)
Weather: Sunny with clear skies.
Hiking to Hengifoss was the highlight of Day 4.
This distinctive waterfall, one of Iceland’s tallest, stands out with its striking red layers. However, finding a place to eat nearby turned into a major detour (or a minor adventure), leading us through some of the most scenic but isolated drives along the Möðrudalsleið.
Out in the middle of nowhere, we stumbled upon a cozy roadside diner called Beitarhúsið. And maybe this serves as a little reminder: some of the best memories are unplanned.
We had to go back the way we came to reach Studlagil Canyon, a place famed for its dramatic basalt columns. Unfortunately, fading daylight impacted our visibility and cut our visit short.
We drove for a long time and grabbed dinner in Akureyri. After dinner we received an alert from the My Aurora Forecast app that the Northern Lights might be visible in our area. And they were... barely. While the lights showed up better on camera than to the naked eye, it didn’t feel like a proper sighting. I hoped for another chance.
That night, we stayed at an Airbnb on a farm in Hvammstangi, complete with fresh cow’s milk—a cozy way to end the day. We slept soundly, unaware of the snowstorm raging outside.
Tip 4: There are lots of gas stations along the ring road, so refueling wasn’t an issue. However, snacks are essential! All the driving and hiking will leave you hungry, and detours to find food—like ours—can cost valuable daylight hours, as it did at Studlagil Canyon.
Day 5: Full Circle - Back To Reykjavík
Journey: Hvammstangi - Borgarnes - Reykjavik (approx. 200 km)
Weather: Mostly snow and ice
We woke to a foot of snow outside, though the storm had passed. The roads were still icy, so we drove cautiously. We grabbed a sandwich and soup in Kaffi Kyrrð in Borgarnes and continued south, with road conditions improving as we neared Reykjavík.
We arrived in Reykjavík around 5 p.m., quickly dropped our bags into our centrally located apartment, and headed straight to our next booking: Sky Lagoon. Offering similar vibes to the Blue Lagoon but closer to the city, it was the perfect way to unwind. We soaked in the geothermal waters, chatted with fellow travelers under the night sky, and braved the sauna, steam rooms, and even the cold plunge pool.
By 9 p.m. we were back in the city for dinner, planning to check out a few bars—until we got the notification we’d been waiting for: There was a high chance of seeing the Northern Lights tonight! Abandoning our beer plans, we jumped back into the Jeep and drove about 40 minutes north of Reykjavík to escape the city’s light pollution.
And finally we witnessed the mesmerising dance in the sky. This one lasted about 40 minutes and could be seen with the naked eye—green with a pink tint.
Tip 5: If you plan to rent a car, you don't need to pay for a guided Northern Lights tour. Download the My Aurora Forecast app to track potential sightings and get real-time updates.
Day 6: Snowmobiling
Journey: Reykjavík to Langjökull Glacier (103 km)
Weather: Windy but sunny, with clear skies
We ended our trip in the most high-octane way: snowmobiling on Langjökull Glacier (also booked on Viator). This full-day adventure started with a drive to the bus pickup point, followed by gearing up at the basecamp before zooming across the glacier itself. I was so grateful they provided the gear because I had never experienced cold winds like that.
Back in Reykjavík, we capped off the day by sampling the bar scene before heading to the airport for our early-morning flight.
Tip 6: Snowmobiling on Langjökull is a full-day excursion from Reykjavík, so clear your schedule. It’s a demanding and pricey adventure, but absolutely worth it!
Final Thoughts & Tips
If you're planning a trip to Iceland and prefer to mostly plan things as you go, staying connected on the right apps is essential. Here are most of the apps that helped us get the most out of our trip.
Wise: For low fee transfers (plus their currency converter app is handy when you’re working with Canadian dollars, Icelandic Króna, and Euros).
SafeTravel: For important weather and safety updates, including road closures and volcanic activity.
Splitwise: To track shared expenses.
Parka: For managing parking payments.
Google Maps: I’d still be lost in Iceland without this app. Essential for navigation in unfamiliar places.
Spotify: For road trip playlists.
Airbnb and Booking.com: For on-the-fly accommodation searches.
Google Wallet: It’s good to have digital versions of your cards on your phone. It means you won’t risk leaving your wallet on a glacier somewhere.
My Aurora Forecast: For keeping tabs on Northern Lights alerts.
Sim Local: I downloaded the app to install plans more easily and keep track of data usage.
Tip 7: Quick math: My Canadian friends racked up over €100 each on roaming charges during the trip. And while my European roaming plan should have kept me connected without extra fees, my connection failed half way through our trip. Thankfully, an eSIM plan saved the day. For just $12 (€11) from Sim Local, I could access one of the top mobile networks in Iceland (Nova) and stay connected on Google Maps, Spotify, and all other essential apps.
Tip 8: Driving around Iceland takes 18 hours without stopping, and while we were mostly lucky with the weather, time was not on our side. We ended up covering a lot of mileage after sunset and surely missed some incredible sights along the way. We fit a lot of activities into our days but felt rushed at times. If you’re visiting in winter, plan for at least seven days so you can take your time, but check the Safe Travel app to stay updated on road conditions as road closures are common during the winter.
And try not to lose your keys!
Kevin McElligott is the Content Manager at Sim Local.
